Maintenance

All maintenance comments

I did not have leaks as such that I know of but when replacing a ceiling panel with insulation I noticed daylight through a myriad of imperfections and pinholes.

The roof was rubbed down clearing all bad points and old gel coat; Carefully so as not to go too far as the roof is very thin (2oz) layup. I then applied two separate coats of resin followed by a coating of Gel coat. Finally a primer of Nitrous Oxide followed by a standard synthetic coach paint primer, two coats of under-coat and a top coat mixed with liqueur.

It helps to remove the Moorlight and work from the opening rather than with step ladders.  Chuck Berry

 

Replacing Glass in Opening Windows

 This process is illustrated in the “Readers Digest Repair Manual” (circa 1973),
The procedure is: - 

1.      Remove aluminium drip cover above window by undoing approx 6 slotted head screws, once these are removed slight force may be needed as the cover is also sealed with mastic. 

2.     Remove 2 screws each side securing stays to window frame. 

3.     Remove approx 6 slotted head screws, securing window hinge to body, gently remove window from van 

4.     Peel back each end of the window to body sealing rubber about 2” to expose 2 frame corner fixing screws each side. 

5.     Soak screws with penetrating oil and leave overnight 

6.     Remove screw with a well fitting screwdriver. 

7.     Pull lower half of window down from header rail 

8.     Glass can be cut to size by a local glazer. Idealy tape the broken pieces together. 

9.     Some glaziers may claim that you cannot use std glass (non toughened) in a caravan; this only applies to caravans manufactured after 1980. 

10.    Alternatively have a replacement window cut from Perspex or acrylic (local suppliers in Yellow pages under “Plastic” or fit double glazing from ECCO. 

11.    Consider fitting new frame to caravan sealing rubber whilst window off van and, if required the white plastic surround around window apertures (supplier details on COC website). 

12.    Reassembly is reverse of removal! 

13.    Suggest using Copperslip grease on frame screws to ease future dismantling. 

14.    Push the rubber seal back into slot using a flat bladed screwdriver. 

15.    Corrosion can be cleaned from frame using Scotchbright pan cleaners lubricated with oil and polished with Solvol Autosol car chrome cleaner. 

16.    Oil hinge and stays 

17.    Use a non-setting mastic sealant (such as Caraseal) between hinge and body and drip cover to body. 

Photofinish table repairs.
I was recently asked to replace the working surface of a photofinish table in a Sable that was showing signs of wear.  The request included replacing the surface of the shelf  between the front windows and the chest of drawers.  This had begun to delaminate.  The final effect needed to reflect the nice condition of the rest of the van.

The table has two folding sections hinged to the chest top. As it was quite sound I chose to refinish it, using a 1mm thick light oak wood veneer finished laminate.  Being much thinner than oak faced plywood I was able it apply it directly on top of the old surface.  There was enough slack in the folding parts to accommodate the extra thickness but I did have to adjust the height of the hinges on the chest and reprofile the facing edge of the chest.  Here the extra thickness reduced the clearance on folding only.  Using the router, I cut away the old edge, and after gluing in new one, shaped the new edge shape to suit the movement.

Resurfacing the table was the same as fitting formica to a kitchen surface.  l stripped off the edges, ironed on new ones, contact glued the laminate sheet to the surface and finished its edges with a laminate trimmer, again in the router.

For the shelf, after stripping off the old beading and corner moulding, I glued new laminate over the old surface and replaced the edgings with new white oak mouldings, to avoid future unsightly stains from rusting nails, I glued and  /or brass screwed everything back in place.

Several coats of matt  Ronseal finished the job nicely.  It looks very good and the colour match is excellent.  Hopefully it will give another thirty years use. 

I have noticed that Cheltenham interiors are like old houses - you can’t expect everything to be square, level or sound.  Certainly not after more than thirty years of age and wear.  The approach I find works is to make everything to measure and expect to repair or replace everything I touch.    

 Roger Sutton.

A strange omission in most Cheltenhams is a light in the toilet compartment. This can be resolved by fitting a white plastic Britax awning light with integral switch, on the side of the compartment, so that the screws and wires run into the rear upper locker above the cooker.
Being designed for exterior use this unit is waterproof, if you are one of the fortunate few with a shower.

You can also try a battery cupboard light, there is a wide range readily available, search the web to see choice and prices.

Lifting Veneers - If the oak veneer starts to lift and you don't want to replace the whole panel it is worth trying to spray gently between the 2 panels with “Bostik Fast Tak” spray adhesive, letting dry for a few minutes and pressing together with a wallpaper seam roller.This adhesive is available from branches of Wilko.
White patches - If you have white patches on the wood in a Cheltenham with medium oak veneer (usually where the wood has got wet & then dried out) try Pledge Extra Care scratch & colour restorer Light/ Medium wood, this brings the colour back to the wood. This is available from branches of Wilko.
Dry Wood - The interior wood in a Cheltenham dries with age, life can be bought back to the wood with Danish oil, this is readily available, try Wilko or Toolstation.
Worktops - Stains & marks can be removed from the Formica worktops in the kitchen area using Autosol metal polish (the same is recommend for aluminium window frames), readily available from a range of stores including wilko and motor stores .